Foot of Wenceslas Square beside the Koruna Palace, Bohemia

Lower Wenceslas Square, Prague

On the morning of 15 March 1939, in a heavy fall of wet snow, German columns roll down Wenceslas Square as Hitler's troops occupy what remains of Czechoslovakia. Thousands of Praguers watch from the pavements, weeping, booing and singing the national anthem; that evening Hitler reaches Prague Castle, and the next day he proclaims the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia.

Panoramic scene depicting Lower Wenceslas Square, Prague (1939), Foot of Wenceslas Square beside the Koruna Palace, Prague.
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Panoramic scene depicting Lower Wenceslas Square, Prague (1939), Foot of Wenceslas Square beside the Koruna Palace, Prague.
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Year
1939
Where
Bohemia · CZ
Era
modern_early
Coordinates
50.084, 14.424

The moment

The occupation came in a snowstorm

On the morning of Wednesday 15 March 1939, German troops entered Prague in heavy, wet snow. They met practically no resistance.

At the foot of Wenceslas Square, beside the Koruna Palace, a crowd of some five thousand people watched a German column come down the square: motorcyclists with sidecars, cyclists, towed anti-tank guns, light tanks and lorries, soldiers in field-grey greatcoats with snow on their helmets. Some in the crowd wept, some booed, and groups sang the national anthem.

The column turned into 28. října street, a street named after the day Czechoslovakia was founded.

Signed away in Berlin overnight

The end had come in stages. At Munich, on 29 September 1938, Czechoslovakia had been made to cede its border regions, the Sudetenland, to Germany.

On 14 March 1939 the Slovak parliament declared an independent Slovak state. That night President Emil Hácha, summoned to Berlin, was given a choice between letting German troops in peacefully or seeing resistance broken by force; by one account Göring threatened to bomb Prague, and Hácha signed.

On the same day Hungarian troops occupied Carpatho-Ukraine, the easternmost part of the republic. What remained of Czechoslovakia was gone.

Trams still drove on the left

The Koruna Palace of 1914, with the crown on its corner tower held up by atlantes, still marks the lower end of the square. From there Wenceslas Square rises about 750 metres to the domed National Museum, with Myslbek's St Wenceslas, complete with all four saints, small before it.

Down the middle ran the tram strip of 1927. Trams and cars still kept to the left: Prague switched to right-hand traffic only on 26 March, eleven days later.

On the right stood the functionalist Lindt building, the glass-fronted Baťa store and the Hotel Juliš; on the left, the Art Nouveau Hotel Evropa.

The start of the darkest years

That evening Hitler reached Prague Castle, and on 16 March he proclaimed the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia from it. Czechs call the six years that followed the darkest period of their history.

The occupation soon showed what it meant. On 17 November 1939, after student protests, the Nazis stormed the Czech universities, arrested about 1,200 students, killed nine, and closed the universities; the date is still a Czech state holiday. Nazi rule ended only with Germany's surrender on 8 May 1945.

The newsreel images from 15 March, weeping crowds on Wenceslas Square in the snow and German vehicles passing between them, are known to every Czech. They show a humiliation, not a parade.

Sources

Further reading

Tagged

  • czechia
  • prague
  • wenceslas-square
  • ww2
  • nazi-occupation
  • protectorate
  • snow
  • 20th-century

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